Monday, August 1, 2016

2016.08.01 - Year of Arabia: Day 1 - The Oregon Coast, a Libyan Physician and a Cup of Tea

“A new language was formed by old ones running underneath and over one another. An ever-changing in-between. Christine could accept this fluidity as she now accepted the night creeping up over her, this blanket of warm dusk. And not just because it was inevitable, but because it was different every night: a performance, an adventure. She would have to learn all over again how to live in this new old place called home. The sky was now completely black. And somewhere far away, right now, it was dawn.” – Doreen Baingana, Tropical Fish

Day 1: Year of Arabia

Today, I did not read extensively about Arabia. Nor did I study its complex language. I did not travel its deserts or delight in its oases. Instead, I showed off the beauty of my own land by taking a Libyan friend to see the Oregon coast; it was his first time going to the ocean. A native of Tripoli, my new friend was no stranger to the sea, but oceans are not seas, and the mighty Pacific is even less so than most.

I relished being on the opposite side of tourism for once and maybe helping to balance out my extraordinary debt to those who have gone out of their way to show me their homelands. I will never be able to truly balance this enormous debt, but I must occasionally try.

I really enjoyed the trip and I hope he can say the same. The weather was beautiful, if atypical: blue skies and sunshine the whole time. After initially dipping a toe in the frigid surf, my friend swore off the idea of wading and instead, we found a rocky area and climbed around for a long time. I taught him the vocabulary of tide pools and their inhabitants and even convinced him to touch a sea anemone. He taught me Arabic numbers 11-20 and also patiently explained how anesthesiology basically works (he is a physician and I was curious).

At lunch we encountered our first major hurdle. He only ate halal meats and he personally did not like seafood either. I’ve never had a Muslim friend in America who has followed any dietary restrictions other than abstaining from pork so I didn't plan for that ahead of time. He politely picked at a basket of fries while I devoured a delicious clam chowder. If we go on any other excursions, perhaps packing our own lunches would be a better option.

Despite the mealtime hiccup, the day was great and I dropped him off in the late afternoon. On my way home, I stopped to run a few errands and bumped into Michael. Back for a month from the Netherlands, he was very busy preparing for his upcoming year at a university in Beirut, but not too busy for tea. We stopped into a little place called Arabian Nights and grabbed a table. The waiters were super nice and impressed with Michael’s ability to order exclusively in Arabic. I was envious.

In the end, despite the rough weekend beforehand and despite being stuck in Portland, I feel that my year of Arabia got off to a solid start.

Reading and Watching

1) The Secret Life of Saeed the Ill-fated Pessoptimist – Introduction by Salma Khadra Jayyusi

I read the introduction of this short book today and was thrilled to find that the writer introducing the novel compared it to Jaroslav Hasek’s The Good Soldier Svejk. Hasek’s work is surely one of my top 10 novels and I come back to it again and again in my mind. Good literary satire is surely the most rare kind of find and my expectations of the novel I held in my hands bloomed.

Beyond that, the introduction discussed the history of Arab literature in general and the entities in which this book poked fun at, including apparently the Palestinian upper class, “the author [Habiby] implies that the Palestinian catastrophe is not an isolated phenomenon; war and aggression were not inflicted upon a progressive social order but were the result of a double moral bankruptcy; the encounter of Israeli aggression and reactionary Arab politics”.

The introduction finishes by speaking about the changed expectations of humanity in our modern world and a “global recognition of the possibility for freedom, liberty, and human dignity, and its determination to defy all forms of aggression”. This is true. Ideas of dignity travel instantly across the planet and give humans heightened expectations and deepened dissatisfactions.

2) Gaddafi Libya a Short Cartoon to Try and Simplify the History


2016.08.01 - Year of Arabia: Day 1 - The Oregon Coast, a Libyan Physician and a Cup of Tea

“A new language was formed by old ones running underneath and over one another. An ever-changing in-between. Christine could accept this fluidity as she now accepted the night creeping up over her, this blanket of warm dusk. And not just because it was inevitable, but because it was different every night: a performance, an adventure. She would have to learn all over again how to live in this new old place called home. The sky was now completely black. And somewhere far away, right now, it was dawn.” – Doreen Baingana, Tropical Fish

Day 1: Year of Arabia

Today, I did not read extensively about Arabia. Nor did I study its complex language. I did not travel its deserts or delight in its oases. Instead, I showed off the beauty of my own land by taking a Libyan friend to see the Oregon coast; it was his first time going to the ocean. A native of Tripoli, my new friend was no stranger to the sea, but oceans are not seas, and the mighty Pacific is even less so than most.

I relished being on the opposite side of tourism for once and maybe helping to balance out my extraordinary debt to those who have gone out of their way to show me their homelands. I will never be able to truly balance this enormous debt, but I must occasionally try.

I really enjoyed the trip and I hope he can say the same. The weather was beautiful, if atypical: blue skies and sunshine the whole time. After initially dipping a toe in the frigid surf, my friend swore off the idea of wading and instead, we found a rocky area and climbed around for a long time. I taught him the vocabulary of tide pools and their inhabitants and even convinced him to touch a sea anemone. He taught me Arabic numbers 11-20 and also patiently explained how anesthesiology basically works (he is a physician and I was curious).

At lunch we encountered our first major hurdle. He only ate halal meats and he personally did not like seafood either. I’ve never had a Muslim friend in America who has followed any dietary restrictions other than abstaining from pork so I didn't plan for that ahead of time. He politely picked at a basket of fries while I devoured a delicious clam chowder. If we go on any other excursions, perhaps packing our own lunches would be a better option.

Despite the mealtime hiccup, the day was great and I dropped him off in the late afternoon. On my way home, I stopped to run a few errands and bumped into Michael. Back for a month from the Netherlands, he was very busy preparing for his upcoming year at a university in Beirut, but not too busy for tea. We stopped into a little place called Arabian Nights and grabbed a table. The waiters were super nice and impressed with Michael’s ability to order exclusively in Arabic. I was envious.

In the end, despite the rough weekend beforehand and despite being stuck in Portland, I feel that my year of Arabia got off to a solid start.

Reading and Watching

1) The Secret Life of Saeed the Ill-fated Pessoptimist – Introduction by Salma Khadra Jayyusi

I read the introduction of this short book today and was thrilled to find that the writer introducing the novel compared it to Jaroslav Hasek’s The Good Soldier Svejk. Hasek’s work is surely one of my top 10 novels and I come back to it again and again in my mind. Good literary satire is surely the most rare kind of find and my expectations of the novel I held in my hands bloomed.

Beyond that, the introduction discussed the history of Arab literature in general and the entities in which this book poked fun at, including apparently the Palestinian upper class, “the author [Habiby] implies that the Palestinian catastrophe is not an isolated phenomenon; war and aggression were not inflicted upon a progressive social order but were the result of a double moral bankruptcy; the encounter of Israeli aggression and reactionary Arab politics”.

The introduction finishes by speaking about the changed expectations of humanity in our modern world and a “global recognition of the possibility for freedom, liberty, and human dignity, and its determination to defy all forms of aggression”. This is true. Ideas of dignity travel instantly across the planet and give humans heightened expectations and deepened dissatisfactions.

2) Gaddafi Libya a Short Cartoon to Try and Simplify the History


Finances – 2016.08.01
Gas: $20.95
Parking: $2.20
Day: 1
Daily Total: $23.15
Grand Total: $23.15
Daily Average: $23.15

Saturday, July 30, 2016

2016.08.30 - The Inverse Relationship of Altitude and Heartbreak

“A lover’s a liar, To himself he lies. The truthful are loveless, Like oysters in their eyes.” – Kurt Vonnegut, The Cat’s Cradle

The weekend before my Year of Arabia began in tears (uncharacteristic for me). Ironically, they were caused by an Arab man. I considered revising my start date due to this inauspicious beginning, but I proceeded, for better or worse. Our whole long, messy history is too complicated to go into (and I don’t trust myself at the moment to relay a balanced version of the events) but suffice it to say that it did not end well. End however, it did. He is agreeing to an arranged marriage. He had his reasons, but still, in the end, he was a coward in a variety of ways.

Typically, when my heart hurts, I jump on a plane. Nothing, and I mean nothing, helps the heart like the feeling of wheels up on a 747. I’m 35 and I’ve certainly suffered my fair share of broken hearts, but no matter the quantity or quality of tears I’ve shed at airports around the world, and no matter how determined I am to hold onto the pain, the most devastating aspects of the sadness seem to stay firmly rooted to the earth. The airplane thrusts me, involuntarily, up and away from them. Just as I can’t will the plane back to earth, I can’t keep my level of heartache sufficiently elevated. Thus, for me, altitude and heartache are inversely related.

But now I am going nowhere. I will, in all likelihood, be here working through October. Stuck on the ground with all of my pain.


Determined to pursue my goal for the upcoming year, I contacted a few friends from the Middle East. Just a few quick texts. A ‘good morning’ to a Libyan friend here in Portland. A ‘good evening’ to an Israeli friend in Tel Aviv. Nothing ground breaking, but talking to friends when your heart hurts is good in and of itself.

Monday, July 11, 2016

2016.07.10 - Driving to Southern Oregon and Thinking About Bahrain

"Till the last minute of your life, you are still a student" - Tariq Ramadan


I've spent the last few weeks wrapped up in my sister's all-consuming life, but today represented a bit of a break from that narrative. Finally, she and her husband, their crazy dog, my mom and my amazing twin nieces are fully moved into their house and their life is stabilizing. Thus it is time now to focus on my own. I have been staying in their apartment which is rented until the 18th; it is now very empty although they left me a chair to sit in and an air mattress on which to sleep. I spend the days at the busy new house but sleep in the quiet apartment. It is beyond lonely there. I hate living alone and find it terrifying. Unfortunately, that is occasionally my lot in life, but fortunately, my misfortune never lasts too long.

I have been invited to move in with my friend Elizabeth who is happily renting me her couch in her tiny apartment in NW Portland. I lived there for awhile during my 'winter of pneumonia' and even though my illness sucked, I do generally like living with Elizabeth. Unluckily, she will be gone for the month of August which puts me right back to square one, but I will try and make some new friends in Portland and at the very least, I won't be in the suburbs. Solitude seems less oppressive when you are living right in the heart of things. 

To prepare for my own move, today I drove down to southern Oregon to visit my dad and grab some of my kitchen stuff (Elizabeth doesn't believe in Teflon pans). On the drive, I didn't make healthy food choices, but I did listen to a lot of my Arabic in the Car CD. I don't learn very well without a visual component, but I figure it probably didn't hurt.

In other academic news, I started a new book today called Sectarian Gulf: Bahrain, Saudi Arabia, and the Arab Spring that Wasn't. I'm excited to learn more about Sunni/Shia sectarian politics in the GCC and especially in the coastal region. I read the preface today and I think this book will fit the bill. Also, I am counting it for my non-fiction book about Bahrain. 

Passing through the Willamette Valley on my way home.


Daily Spending:
$1.49 - Water
$0.99 - Diet Coke
$5.98 - Taco Bell for dinner - not a healthy choice :(
$4.59 - Blizzard at DQ for dessert - not healthy, but such a delicious road trip treat!

Oregon Blog - Day # 1 (Well, it is at least the first day I am writing again anyway)
Daily Total = $13.05
Grand Total = $13.05
Daily Average = $13.05
Oregon Total = $13.05
Oregon Average = $13.05

Tuesday, June 7, 2016

2016.06.04 - Six shots of Raki and a Phone Number

"Now more than ever do I realize I will never be content with a sedentary life, that I will always be haunted by thoughts of a sundrenched elsewhere." - Isabelle Eberhardt, The Nomad: The diaries of Isabelle Eberhardt


The days here pass quickly. This morning my closest friend here at the hostel (a Dutch girl) flew away home which is too bad for me (and for her).

On her last day, we went to the Plakias beach with an Irish barber and a giant Swede. The Swede was intolerable and kept telling me that Americans generally didn’t like him but it seemed very much the other way around. After a few hours of being buffeted by nonstop politics (in an accusatory rather than a debate form) he told us that he had been diagnosed as being on the spectrum for Asperger’s and I was actually really glad he mentioned it. His inability to gauge appropriate social behavior was put in context and my patience in the situation skyrocketed.

After a day at the beach that included gelato for lunch, we went out to dinner at a seaside place. The waiter was hilarious and after a delicious Greek salad and mixed meze, I caught his eye from across the room and asked for the check by pretending to write on my hand (the international sign for this request). From across the restaurant, he shouted, “Oh! You want my phone number?” and then proceeded to tell it to me slowly and loudly. Everyone in the restaurant laughed. Then, instead of giving us the customary shot of post-dinner Raki, he brought us a small vessel of it which held about 7 shots. He sat down and drank one with us. When we finished, he made a big production of bringing us another vessel and making us drink another shot…it was water! He laughed at his trick but then replaced the water with a container of stronger stuff.

By the time we finished, the warmth of the alcohol flowed through our veins and we begged him for the real bill, which, half an hour after we’d initially asked for it, we still didn’t have. Finally it was produced and we headed home to sing happy birthday to a 22 year old Parisian girl and drink one more round.

Delicious Greek Salad

The first of MANY shots of Raki
Daily Spending:
$0.57 - Fresh olives
$2.39 - Local cherry jam
$0.91 - Bread
$3.41 - Cheese
$2.27 - Gelato
$1.19 - Postcard/stamp
$16.37 - Dinner/drinks
$1.93 - Beer
$11.37 - Accommodation

Day # = 6
Daily Total =  $40.41
Grand Total = $311.97
Daily Average = $52.00
Greece Total = $311.97
Greece Average = $52.00



2016.06.03 - Tunnels, Mines and Caves

“’History!’ writes Bokonon. ‘Read it and weep!’” – Kurt Vonnegut, The Cat’s Cradle

I did another hike yesterday with a British guy. It was a hike along a cliff and through some mining tunnels. In order to access the caves at the end of the tunnels, we scrambled down a cliff and swam around to them. It was good fun and my lungs held out well.



A look back at Plakias

Mining tunnel



Natural sea salt deposits




Plakias


Add caption
Later that night, I met an Austrian guy and had a good long conversation with him over dinner. He was interesting and had a originally been a refugee at a young age from Albania. They illegally crossed the mountains into Austria to flee the communist regime there. He remembered the trip vividly. It was interesting to hear about.

Daily Spending:
$0.91 - Fresh olives
$5.51 - Round of beers
$14.09 - Restaurant dinner (starters, Fanta, spaghetti)
$11.36 - Accommodation

Day # = 5
Daily Total =  $31.87
Grand Total = $271.56
Daily Average = $54.31
Greece Total = $271.56
Greece Average = $54.31

Monday, June 6, 2016

2016.06.02 - First Hike Post Pneumonia

Between October of 2015 and March of 2016 I was so, so sick with pneumonia. Every single breath was painful. I couldn’t go anywhere or do anything and if I tried to, I would just end up back in the emergency room. I had to take sleeping pills at night in order to sleep and each night, my greatest fear was that my roommate would find me dead in the morning. Generally, the worst and most difficult part of my day was the 5 minutes I needed to stand up in the morning in order to take a shower.

And now?

Yesterday I stood on the top of a mountain at a little church overlooking the Mediterranean Sea after an hour and a half climb. It was my first post-pneumonia hike. A Canadian girl named Sofia instigated the adventure and I joined her, a New York musician girl and the Californian author for the trek.





On the way up, the beautiful, young musician girl went on and on for a bit about a woman at the hostel who was a few years older than me and in great physical shape. She kept reiterating how that was the goal. I looked down at my own, out of shape, imperfect body which was decidedly not the goal of these young girls, but I looked down on it with surprising kindness. This body has taken me far. This body lived through pneumonia. How could I hate it? It’s easy to imagine a life of perfection when you are 19. I guess it is expected that you will.

But in the end, despite my weakened body, I did it. I stood atop the mountain. Then I walked down to the bottom of the mountain and Sofia and I climbed down onto a little, secluded beach where we dove in the aquamarine sea and swam for an hour. I felt empowered (to say the least) when we arrived back in our little village of Plakias that evening, 5 hours after we’d left.


That night was a hostel BBQ where the musician and the author played their guitars and serenaded the group with an incredible array of beautiful songs.



I am the absolute worst at water selfies. This was the best of the bunch.


Daily Spending:
$0.56 - Water
$5.58 - Hostel BBQ
$1.90 - Beer
$3.35 - Gelato (Cranberry and Banana)
$11.15 - Accommodation

Day # = 4
Daily Total = $22.54
Grand Total = $239.69
Daily Average = $59.92
Greece Total = $239.69
Greece Average = $59.69


Thursday, June 2, 2016

2016.06.01 - Philosophizing, Cultural Objectivity and Thoughts on the Rural American Traveler

The days drift lazily by like they can only in beachfront island villages.

The day is swimming, reading, sunning and eating local foods. The evening is drinks and conversation with travelers from all ends of the world. The night is silence and stars. And this life is beautiful and good.

Despite the goodness of things at the moment, my winter of pneumonia is never far from my mind. Seven months sick, thinking I would die and now I sit in the fading light of day, staring at the sea, eating fresh olives and drinking homemade wine. I’m fortunate to have lived. I have long forgotten the majority of my brushes with death, but this one was so protracted that its memory refuses to dissipate. So I remember and fear death more and more even as it stalks me less and less.

Death may haunt my nights, but during the day I am focused on the characters of this place who are slowly beginning to emerge and, oddly enough, even mingle with the characters in my book. Zorba the Greek is what I am reading. Written 80 years ago, it is about a man here on the island of Crete who spends his time philosophizing and wishing he was more impulsive. One of the men here on the island (a man from a rural area not 5 hours from my own small, logging town) is obsessed with this author, in love with Greece (if not the actual place, then at least the idea of the place) and writing his own novel.

I never meet rural Americans so it is strange that I should be staying in the same place as one. He seems to have (somewhat bitterly) rejected the culture of our homeland. I thoroughly understand this sentiment but I believe the final understanding lies in realizing how arbitrary it all is. No need for rejection, just objectivity (which is far more challenging but ultimately more peaceful). He seeks the magic of the exotic and imagines it to be found somewhere on these islands. When I briefly told him about my travels he played the guitar and sang a song in order to process the information but while this description might make him seem like something of a hippie, he does not, in real life, come across as one.

Orientalism, or exoticizing the ‘other’, only works in books and movies. In real life, neither humans nor land are magical and in my opinion, to imagine that they ought to be does a disservice to both them and oneself. He does not seem to understand people enough yet to know this, but it is impossible to imagine that someone who tries so hard and seeks so genuinely won’t eventually learn this truth.

No lands are magical, humans are only exotic if you don’t bother to get to know them and life is so, so much more than a novel. On that note (and with a hypocritical wink) I will introduce other characters later.





Daily Spending:
$4.69 - Lunch at Restaurant (Tzatziki, Garlic Bread, Tomatoes)
$0.39 - Fresh Olives
$0.43 - Tomato
$0.28 - Pear
$0.25 - Cucumber
$0.90 - Bread
$2.69 - Canned Dolmades (rice wrapped in grape leaves)
$3.69 - Gelato (Strawberry and Strawberry/Chocolate)
$11.19 - Accommodation

Day # = 3
Daily Total = $24.51
Grand Total = $217.15
Daily Average = $72.38
Greece Total = $217.15
Greece Average = $72.38

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

2016.05.31 - Mamma Mia! The Life Here is Good!

Dear travel/earth/road:

Mamma mia, here I go again
My my, how can I resist you?
Mamma mia, does it show again?
My my, just how much I've missed you
Yes, I've been brokenhearted
Blue since the day we parted
Why, why did I ever let you go?
Mamma mia, now I really know,
My my, I could never let you go.

The Mamma Mia soundtrack started the morning off enthusiastically here at Hostel Plakias. After the travel stress of the last couple of days, it was a much needed enthusiasm. My trip included 5 busses, 2 planes and a train (and a lot of waiting around). Plakias is a tiny village with a few hundred people on the southern coast of Crete, in Greece and home to a hostel rated 9.9 on Hostelworld, a virtually unheard of score. Being here though, I think it deserves the extra 0.1. 

For 10 euros a night I get a comfy bed, hot showers, a great location, a fantastic common area with tables and hammocks, a guest kitchen, drinks available for purchase, beach and snorkel gear to use, wifi and lockers. Also, the hostel is definitely an all-age hostel which I really like. In fact, I would say that in my mid-30s, I am on the young end of things. I don’t love staying at places with a bunch of 18 year olds. 

Now, drinking my morning tea to the upbeat tunes of Abba, I feel like I entered a new, better world of beaches and relaxation. This should be good. Life is good. For the next 2 weeks I will stay here in this place. 

The olive grove of Hostal Plakias

My dorm at Hostal Plakias

Having Tea at Hostal Plakias

Hammock area at Hostal Plakias

Daily Spending:
$6.01 - Towel
$2.00 - Toothpaste
$0.89 - Soap
$3.56 - Jam
$1.01 - 2 Bread Rolls
$0.45 - Orange
$0.29 - Pear
$6.35 - Greek Salad
$1.50 - (Greek) Edam Cheese
$0.40 - Fresh olives
$2.67 - Canned Dolmades (rice wrapped in grape leaves)
$1.89 - Orange/Carrot/Lemon Gelato
$1.89 - Beer
$11.13 - Accommodation

Day # = 2
Daily Total = $40.14
Grand Total = $192.64
Daily Average = $96.32
Greece Total = $192.64
Greece Average = $96.32


2016.05.31 - First Glimpses of Crete

“Bravo!” boomed the bus driver, pleased with our ability to board the bus and seat ourselves without incident. As the bus started traveling along the coastline from Heraklion to Rethymno, I tried to enjoy the view but my first glimpses of Crete were through eyes that could barely stay open. I had been awake 25 solid hours at that point with no end in sight. In Rethymno, I caught another bus to Plakias and met a couple of travelers headed to my hostel. The office was closed so we dropped our bags and headed to the seaside. After dipping our feet in, we relaxed at a restaurant and ordered fresh anchovies and a Greek version of what was essentially mixed mezze. Deliciousness. Back at the hostel, I immediately showered and went to bed, sleeping for 12 solid hours. 
Heraklion


View from the bus, cutting through the island to head south.

So, so sleepy.

Daily Spending:
$80.36 - Flight from Athens to Heraklion
$1.34 - Bus from airport to central Heraklion
$9.24 - Bus from Heraklion to Rethymno
$0.89 - Water bottle
$5.46 - Bus from Rethymno to Plakias
$11.13 - Accommodation at Hostal Plakias
$28.73 - 2 Books (Zorba the Greek, The Odyssey)
$15.35 - Dinner

Day # = $152,50
Daily Total = $152,50
Grand Total = $152,50
Daily Average = $152,50
Greece Total = $152,50
Greece Average = $152,50

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Book Review - Netherland

Netherland, written by Joseph O'Neill, is a a novel about a Dutch man living in New York during 9-11 and the toll that the stress of that situation takes on his marriage and his life. The book is basically a series of flashbacks that the main character has as he tries to piece his life back together and includes a lot of stories of his youth in the Netherlands.

The book is actually pretty dark, but the author is thoughtful and intelligent as he writes about a deep (and deeply unhappy) man who, despite everything, just seems to want to be a good father as he muddles through his life working, playing cricket and trying to make friends. Truth be told, he is not a particularly likable character (especially at first) but I didn't completely dislike him and anyhow, the other characters weren't so great either.

This book jumps around in time quite a bit, but the author makes the jumps surprisingly seamless as he tells his story. One distracting part about the book was the feeling that each and every sentence was written and then subsequently rewritten to be infinitely more complex than it needed to be. The  author was clearly trying to put his thoughts down in a way he felt was beautiful and did them justice, but a lot of it was much too contrived to be truly beautiful.

I originally picked up the book because it was on a list of books to read about the Netherlands, but when I started reading, I felt like it ought to be on different list (New York? cricket?). As I pressed onward however, I did enjoy the book and its descriptions of a vividly described Dutch childhood.

If anyone is interested in any of these topics (Netherlands, New York, 9-11, cricket or trying to keep a marriage together), I would recommend the book. Although it is not a light/happy read, it was enjoyable and easily kept my attention throughout.

Book Review - Girl With a Pearl Earring

While in the Netherlands, I read Girl with a Pearl Earring before going to see the The Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague which houses several Vermeer paintings. The book was a historical fiction based on the life of the girl in the painting that the title describes.

I am, by no means, a connoisseur of art, and this was the first time I’d ever learned about a painter beyond the audioguides or informational plaques supplied by museums. It was a good book and definitely drew me into the 17th century world in which Vermeer inhabited. The storyline was pretty simple and nothing to write home about, but even though reading the book wasn’t life changing, it did keep my attention and it was enjoyable. While not much is actually known about the life of Vermeer beyond city archives (births, deaths, marriage and debt), the author does a good job spinning these meager records into a decent tale.


The best part of the book was simply the fact that upon seeing Vermeer’s paintings in person, I knew why they were so appreciated and I could actually understand the genius in his use of light and positioning. The book itself was good, but the enjoyment I got out of seeing Vermeer’s paintings after reading it will forever change the way in which I approach art museums.

Thursday, May 19, 2016

2016.05.19 - A Day in Haarlem, The Netherlands

Yesterday I took a train only a couple of stops to the town of Haarlem in the Netherlands. The weather wasn’t good and I am still traveling by myself, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. After arriving at the train station and orienting myself towards the city center (centrum), I walked as quickly as possible to the Grote Kerk van,  St. Bavo (or Great Church of St Bavo) and ducked inside out of the drizzle. I paid the 2.50 Euro entrance fee and seated myself on a simple wooden chair.


The view was breathtaking. The stained glass, the ceiling, the immense columns, the nearly 100 foot high organ that was played by Mozart as a child. The church was beautifully constructed between 1370 and 1538 and it really was a grand place of worship.



The famous organ played by both Mozart and Handel
This old church doubled as an old cemetery. The entire floor was covered in over 1500 grave stones. Citizens of the town built the church and simultaneously made up the foundation. I walked around to stay warm. The cold stones and tall ceilings have a way of ensuring cathedrals are cold even on the hottest of days. This is a far more pleasing characteristic when one finds themselves inside a cathedral much closer to the equator.


Eventually I sat back down to look at my map. The wooden chairs seemed so simple compared to the grandeur of the building. Their plainness seemed out of place. I guess chairs don’t need to be fancy to be important. Should the building collapse tomorrow, I guarantee the chairs would be replaced far more quickly than the columns.


Enough about chairs, my apologies. Here are some oddities far more interesting than chairs.

In the Dutch imagination of 1499, this is what a pelican looked like.
In the olden days had longer fur and more
exposed breasts in church...apparently.
And Europe had monkeys which went to church and ate belts.
And this part is true: "In the Middle Ages, a dog-whipper's task
was to discipline unruly dogs and to maintain order in the church."
I can't help but wonder why unruly dogs were allowed in church?
After spending a well over an hour in the church, I stopped at a popular eatery that only sold freshly made fries (or Vlaamse Frites as they are called here). The Dutch seem to love their fries and there are shops that exclusively sell this food all over the place. They are not however, eaten plain. No, no! When one orders fries, they also choose a condiment from a long menu of condiments. This sauce is then slathered generously on the top of the fries and the entire mess is eaten with a tiny (not overly useful) fork. The most common condiment here is a sweet mayonnaise. For the sake of tradition, I ate this combo for lunch, although I probably won’t do so again because really, if I am going to eat that many calories in one setting, I can think of infinitely more appealing ways to do so.

Lots of sauce options for fries.
This was the small. Seriously.
I ended my day at the Frans Hals museum where I wandered around and looked at paintings for an hour and a half. Last week, I prepared for the Vermeer museum by learning about Vermeer and this week, I did the same for Frans Hals. I watched a few Youtube videos on the artist including a wonderful, hour-long lecture at Yale. I have said this before, but THIS is the way to see art museums. I appreciated every brilliant brush stroke today because I actually knew why they were brilliant.

Frans Hals
An ancient travel book. Basically a precursor to Lonely Planet. 
When the museum closed, I stopped for Haarlem's famous Jopen beer which was small and expensive, but good.

Haarlem's Jopen beer.
A canal in Haarlem
Then, I walked back to the station in the rain. In the warm train, I flew past rainy, cow-speckled Dutch farms. Once back in Leiden, I alternated between trudging and rushing through the rain on the long walk back to Michael’s flat.

I arrived cold and exhausted and kinda wishing I had a travel partner again. Of course my friend only left last week and I must give myself time to find someone else. I take heart in the fact that I have never ended a trip alone. In the meantime, I will keep busy, see the world, take some pictures and keep this journal.